Tuesday, January 2, 2024

Turkish White Bean Salad
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Turkish White Bean Salad

Here’s a traditional “meze,” or Middle Eastern appetizer, that I learned from my friend “Kalo,” a Turkish chef and restaurant owner in Decatur. I used to hang out at his place when I was free on Saturday afternoons, and served as “Guest Chef.” The time working with Kalo and several other guys there influenced my cooking considerably, both at home and at our family restaurant in Athens, Donderos’ Kitchen.
Turkish White Bean Salad

The dish is completely “vegan” or (as the new term is emerging) “plant-based.” The freshly grated ginger and the cinnamon give the dish its exotic and slightly overtones. We make a similar, though slightly different, white bean salad for catering at Donderos’ Kitchen.

The recipe serves six to eight as part of an appetizer selection, or about six as a side dish.

2 (14-ounce) cans Great Northern beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup minced red onion
1 medium-large clove garlic, minced or put through a garlic press
1/2 teaspoon grated fresh ginger
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste
1/2 teaspoon oregano
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon paprika, plus more for sprinkling on top
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
A pinch of cayenne
3 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
1/2 of a long cucumber or 2 Persian cucumbers, quartered lengthwise, and cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1/2 cup “grape” or cherry tomatoes, halved
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped parsley, flat ‘Italian type’ preferred
2 tablespoons coarsely chopped cilantro
Kalamata or other Greek black olives for garnish

Drain the beans, rinse them in running water, and drain again. Place them in a large bowl with the onion, garlic, ginger, salt, dry seasonings, lemon juice, and olive oil. Mix gently so as not to break the beans. Allow to marinate for at least 10 minutes, stirring occasionally. Add the cucumber, tomato, parsley, and cilantro. Stir in and allow the mixture to sit several minutes.

Taste a bean and cucumber piece and a little dressing. Add salt and/or lemon juice if necessary for full flavor and light tanginess. Ideally, let the salad sit at least 20 minutes before serving. (Refrigerates well for up to 8 hours.) Taste one last time before serving and adjust seasonings if necessary.

Serve in a shallow dish, or several small low bowls for a meze table. Garnish by sprinkling with a little paprika, and arrange a few black olives on and around the salad.
Devilled Salad, a Vegan Treat
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                                                  Devilled Tofu Salad, a Vegan Treat

Here’s a home version of the vegan devilled tofu salad we make at the restaurant. The main difference is that at the restaurant we use a complex seasoning mix we developed for scrambled tofu that includes several spices that are hard to find in the supermarket. The simplified home version, however, makes a tasty tofu salad that is similar to what we do commercially, and is good for sandwiches as well as an appetizer.

 

Devilled Salad, a Vegan Treat

Although crumbling the tofu by hand or a fork is quickest, a prettier dish is made by thinly slicing the block of tofu on a cutting board, then turning the board and slicing across those slices, then cutting through the pile of sliced tofu so it looks like tiny cubes. For best results, drain the block of tofu then stand it on its end to shed some liquid while preparing the other ingredients.

 

The recipe makes a pint of tofu salad, sufficient for four sandwiches or an appetizer spread for ten or more people. It will keep for several days in the refrigerator.

 

1 (14-ounce) block firm tofu

2 inch length of a celery stick

2 fairly thin green onions, white and green parts

2 tablespoons Dijon or brown mustard

2 tablespoons Vegan mayonnaise (such as Hellmann’s)

1 teaspoon cider or wine vinegar

3/4 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon ground dry turmeric

1/8 teaspoon ground black pepper

1/8 teaspoon paprika

2 large pinches garlic salt (together less than 1/8 teaspoon total)

A pinch of cayenne

 

Drain water off the block of tofu and stand it up on its end in the emptied tofu container to drain some more liquid while preparing the remaining ingredients.

 

On a cutting board, using a chef’s knife, finely mince the celery and green onions. Transfer them to a mixing bowl. Add mustard, mayonnaise, vinegar, salt and spices. Mix well.

 

On the cutting board, thinly slice the block of tofu then pile up the slices, half at a time, and thinly slice through then to make long matchstick-shaped pieces. Turn the board and thinly slice across them to make diced tofu. This makes the most attractive tofu salad. Alternately, crumble the tofu with the hand or a fork, part at a time, breaking up any big chunks.

 

Add the tofu to the bowl and mix everything together well. Let sit ten minutes, then mix well again and taste, Add a little salt, if needed. Allow the salad to rest for at least half an hour or up to a day or two refrigerated to let the flavors mingle. Stir well before serving,

 

If using as a spread for the appetizer table, transfer to an attractive bowl or small platter. The surface can be dusted with paprika, if desired. If making sandwiches, some sliced tomato and spinach leaves make a nice addition.

Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage with Apple
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Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage with Apple

 

I’ve been making this dish for many years, typically to accompany a roast. For the last fifteen years or so we have sold it by the quart at the restaurant as a side dish with the Thanksgiving items that many of our customers order for the holiday. 

Sweet and Sour Red Cabbage with Apple

I first encountered this bright and beautiful treat in college at the classy demonstration cafeteria run by the School of Home Economics, where they called it “Belgian Red Cabbage.” I’ve since learned that sweet and sour red cabbage, often with apple, is prepared in northern Germany, Denmark, and Czech Republic, and elsewhere in central and northern Europe. I actually had it at a Czech restaurant in East Berlin, where it came with roasted goose and potato dumplings.


Here's how I make it.


1 medium red cabbage

1 large apple

10 whole allspice berries

4-inch strip of orange zest, peeled preferably from an organic or well-scrubbed orange

1/2 cup water

1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

5 tablespoons cider vinegar

4 tablespoons sugar


Quarter the cabbage, cut out and discard the core. Shred cabbage finely (this can be done with a 2-milometer blade in a food processor or mandolin). Peel, quarter, and core the apple and chop the quarters into small pieces. The orange zest and allspice berries can be tied in a small bag made of so-called "cheesecloth" for easy removal later.


In a stainless steel or enamel (not aluminum or cast iron) pot bring the cabbage, apples, allspice, orange peel, pepper, salt, and 1/2 cup water to a boil. Simmer, covered, stirring from time to time and adding a little water to keep some liquid on the bottom of the pan. Cook until cabbage is tender and the apple has broken up (about 20 min). 


Remove the cloth bag or if it wasn’t used remove the orange peel and allspice berries as you see them. Add the vinegar and sugar plus salt to taste. Simmer about 5 minutes. The color will become a bright crimson red. Taste and add more sugar, vinegar, and/or salt to your taste. The flavor should be delicately sweet-sour.


The dish is best if made ahead and reheated to serve. Re-check the salt before serving.

 

Spiced Applesauce for Potato Pancakes
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Spiced Applesauce for Potato Pancakes

This sauce serves as a condiment, particularly for potato pancakes, or Hanukkah latkes. A variation on the applesauce theme is to add chopped dried cranberries. I taught the cranberry version to accompany Latkes in a recent cooking class on holiday foods, that featured Hanukkah, Christmas and New Year dishes.

The recipe makes sufficient condiment for a group of diners.
Spiced Applesauce for Potato Pancakes

3 large (1-1/2 to 2 pounds) Fuji or Gala apples
2 tablespoons dried cranberries (optional)
2 tablespoons olive oil
4 tablespoons water
2 teaspoon lemon juice
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon cinnamon
1/8 teaspoon nutmeg

Peel and quarter apples. Cut out cores. Slice apple quarters crosswise 1/2-inch thick. If using dry cranberries, chop them finely on a board with a chef’s knife.

In stainless steel or enamel pot, combine apples, cranberries if used, butter or olive oil, water, lemon juice, sugar, salt, cinnamon and nutmeg. Simmer, covered, stirring frequently, about 10 minutes. Uncover pot, and simmer, stirring occasionally until apples are very tender and liquid is reduced. If mixture becomes dry, add a small amount of water.

When apples are very tender, remove from heat. Break apples up with a wooden spoon or potato masher. Taste and add a little sugar or salt, if desired.

Serve warm or at room temperature in a bowl, to accompany potato pancakes.
Spice-Roasted Sweet Potatoes
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                                                     Spice-Roasted Sweet Potatoes

 

Here’s a dish I’ve made frequently at our restaurant for catering. Herb and spice roasted sweet potatoes are a cheery side dish, or if served with a dipping sauce, such as rémoulade (make it with vegan mayonnaise) or salsa, it also makes a nice snack or appetizer buffet dish.

 

Spice-Roasted Sweet Potatoes
This seasoning mixture shows the method. Other seasonings, like a touch of curry powder, or Cajun mix, can be used instead. The dish can be made ahead and served later at room temperature, or the sweet potato cubes can be reheated in the oven and then served hot.

 

I don’t peel the sweet potatoes, for nutrition and convenience, but they can be peeled if you prefer.

 

The recipe serves six as a side dish, more as an appetizer.

 

2 medium-large sweet potatoes (about 2 to 2-1/4 pounds)

1 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon Italian herb mix, Herbes de Provence, or dry oregano

1/4 teaspoon ground cumin

1/4 teaspoon paprika

1/4 teaspoon black pepper

1 pinch ground cinnamon

3 tablespoons olive oil

 

Set the oven for 350 degrees.

 

Spice-Roasted Sweet Potatoes
If not peeling the sweet potatoes, rinse them off well. Cut off tips and any blemished skin areas, and pull off any roots. Cut the potatoes in half lengthwise then into 3/4-inch wide lengthwise strips. Finally cut across to make 3/4-inch  cubes. Place these on  a baking sheet pan, such as a cookie pan.

 

Mix the salt and other dry seasonings. Sprinkle the mixture evenly over the sweet potato cubes. Then with your hands, toss them together and mix them well to distribute the seasonings. Add the oil, and again mix them well together to moisten them with the oil.

 

Roast in the heated oven for 10 minutes. Remove from the oven and slide a sharp metal spatula under them and turn and mix them.

Roast for another 10 minutes and again stir and toss them with the spatula. Roast for another 5-10 minutes. Test them for tenderness by sticking a toothpick into some. If needed, roast them a bit more, until they test tender.

 

Serve as a side dish, or make a dipping sauce, such as an easy rémoulade (see index in this blog for a recipe).

Sesame-Marinated Broccoli, Korean inspired
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                                      Sesame-Marinated Broccoli, Korean inspired

There are dozens of small savory dishes served before a Korean meal. This sesame-dressed broccoli is patterned after some of those. Broccoli is relatively new in Asia, so this specific dish would not have been traditional in Korea, but the style is. In any case, this bright, tasty dish our restaurant, Donderos’ Kitchen, is sometimes asked to make for catering. 

Sesame-Marinated Broccoli, Korean inspired
Makes enough for 6 servings as side dish
 
1-1/2 pounds broccoli crowns, about 2 medium-large crowns

Cut off all except 1 inch of stem. Cut through the stem parts then pull apart to make even-sized flowerets, each including some stem.

To a large pot of boiling water, add 2 teaspoons salt. Blanch broccoli, stirring almost constantly, until bright green and just starting to become tender, 60 seconds. Drain and cool thoroughly with running water.

In bowl, mix the marinade:
2 tablespoons white sesame seeds (toast in frying pan, shaking constantly, until golden)
1 tablespoon soy sauce, Japanese or Korean style preferred
1 tablespoon water
2 teaspoons white vinegar
1 teaspoon canola or sunflower oil
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

Toss drained broccoli with marinade, using two large spoons, being careful not to break the pieces. Toss several times over 10 minutes, then again before serving or plattering.

Roasted Cauliflower with Tahini-Lemon Sauce: a Middle Eastern Vegan Classic
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                      Roasted Cauliflower with Tahini-Lemon Sauce: a Middle Eastern Vegan Classic

Recently at our restaurant, Donderos’ Kitchen, an Indian couple bringing their kids back to Athens for the start of the UGA fall semester were looking for strictly vegan, plant-based food. I conversed with them as they settled on falafel wraps. However, though the falafel, pita bread and hummus are vegan, the typical condiments include a yogurt sauce and feta cheese. So I fixed a truly vegan sauce from the same areas of the Middle East that falafel come from, tahini-lemon sauce. They were delighted with the food, and their kids at the university will be coming back, they said, to eat at our place frequently.

Roasted Cauliflower with Tahini-Lemon Sauce: a Middle Eastern Vegan Classic
Photo: Maria Dondero; Plate: Marmalade Pottery, Athens GA
I had forgotten how easy making that classic sauce is. It took me half a minute. The taste of the sauce, as I checked it for salt, took me back to a stunning Lebanese appetizer, or “mezze,” I had years ago where you dip deep-fried cauliflower pieces into that same sauce. I learned after that introduction that the cauliflower can be lightly oiled and roasted, rather than necessarily deep fried. Either way it’s a great dish.

Tahini (sometimes spelled “tahina”) is a puree of sesame seeds. It’s available at whole and health food stores, Middle Eastern groceries, and even at some supermarkets. “Cortas” brand, from Lebanon, is of very good quality. Mix the hummus in the jar so separated oil and solids are evened out.

Here’s how I make the sauce and roast the cauliflower for dipping in it. The recipe serves six or more as an appetizer.

Make the sauce first. The cauliflower should be cooked shortly before eating and served hot.

The sauce:
3 tablespoons tahini
5 tablespoons water
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt

Whisk all together in a bowl until smooth and creamy. Taste, and add a little salt or lemon juice if desired.

The cauliflower:
1 medium head of cauliflower
3/4-1 teaspoon salt, depending on the size of the cauliflower
1-1/2 tablespoons olive or sunflower oil
About 1 tablespoon finely minced “Italian” flat parsley for garnish

Remove leaves and thick stem from cauliflower. Cut the rest into similarly sized (1- to 1 1/2- inch) flowerets, each with a piece of stem. Rinse and drain.

Shortly before cooking, in large bowl sprinkle cauliflower with half of the salt and toss. Repeat with the other half of the salt and toss. Drizzle with the oil. Toss well to moisten evenly.

Spread cauliflower out on baking sheet and roast in 375-degree oven 10 minutes. Stir and turn cauliflower pieces. Return to oven and roast until golden in a few places and cauliflower is becoming tender.

Arrange still-hot cauliflower on a platter or shallow serving dish. Accompany with a bowl of the dipping sauce, lightly dusted with finely minced parsley.

Alternately, in the more modern style, smear a platter with the sauce, then arrange the cauliflower pieces over the sauce. Sprinkle with minced parsley.